VESTIAIRE HOMME is the high-end brand launched by designer Boris Fayete, who chose Paris to present his first runway show. Born in Melun, Fayete grew up surrounded with stylish, self-assured and flamboyant figures who were clearly devoted to fashion. Commonly referred to as “sapeurs”, these icons of style are often misunderstood in France, and mostly envisaged as superficial peacocks whose main goal is to show off.

Through “La Diatence”, his very first collection, Boris Fayete pays homage not only to his Congolese roots, but also to his mother’s legacy who studied fashion design in Kinshasa. She passed away in 2016, but her love for fashion lives on in the unique creativity of her son, who approaches clothing in a freeing and celebratory manner. For Fayete, “la sape” does not limit itself to wearing beautifully crafted garments and making an entrance. It’s about finding a sense of pride and confidence within oneself, as well as the ability to take risks and stand out on the street, which becomes a democratized runway. “La sape” is not only about charm, seduction and making a statement through clothing, but also self-respect and proving that you actually belong. And it clearly goes deep, beyond the usual sartorial codes and normalized ideas of good and bad taste. For Fayete, it conveys assurance, optimism, and a refreshing sense of playfulness.

Using refined materials -and insisting on manufacturing his pieces in France- Fayete creates an exciting silhouette, both inspired by work wear staples and more sophisticated styles. Combining sharply tailored coats and jackets with loose-fitting pants, the designer puts an emphasis on comfort and ease, as well as precious details. Gold is a key accent within the collection, chosen for buttons on shirts, blazers and coats. A black vegan leather zip-up blouson is embellished with baroque gold brass angels, making it one of the collection’s most expressive pieces. The declarative and eye-catching dimension of “la sape” can be found within Fayete’s use of optical and animal prints, evoking the maximalist runways of Milan during the early 1990s.

Bold and evocative, the color palette used in the collection is also vibrant, ranging from fiery red and bright white to deep indigo and stark black. Crocodile prints are important, too, adding texture to jackets and outerwear pieces. Key materials include vegan leather, heavy denim, polyester and satin cotton, as well as a selection of upcycled materials picked from the most prestigious brands, underlining Fayete’s awareness of sustainable practices.

“La Diatence” finds its roots within the Congolese verb “diata”, which refers to the act of walking and posing. In Fayete’s mind, it is much more than a simple movement. It’s a way of appropriating the space around oneself with allure, elegance, style and fearlessness. The shiny beer capsules printed on the invitation do not only refer to the flamboyance of “la sape”. They also remind us of joyful moments spent together and lively discussions over a few drinks. They speak of the power of community, too, as well as finding beauty within the ordinary.